![]() ![]() If the person that told you this was Gary Reavis of Huntsville Engine, I would listen! The man knows a thing or two about engines. If you aren't seeing over 240F on a regular basis with a decent quality dino oil, then you are OK. Up to 260 or 270 or so, the rate of deterioration increases gradually, then depending on the oil it starts dying faster. You need to get it REAL hot for immediate breakdown. Synthetic will buy your some additional temp tolerance. Like OFFORWFO said in an earlier post, anything over 230F to 240F should have a cooler for long engine life. I am looking for some data on breakdown temps for motor oil. I wonder how hot it would get without a cooler? Thats my comment for taongisurvivor. Running the truck empty oil temp gets to 225. Memorial weekend I drove about 125 miles on I10 doing 70 or so with a 2000pnd trailer. ![]() I have an oil temp gauge with the sender mounted in the remote filter. That is also the order the oil flows through. Im running remote filters/180deg.thermostat/perma-cool maxi-cool cooler setup. The reason I joined this forum was to ask about oil temps. FWIW high humidity actually cools better than low humidity because the air is more dense which gives better heat transfer capabilities. I say put the oil cooler on but use a thermostat inline somewhere. #CG ENGINE OIL COOLER WORTH IT INSTALL#If you don't want to install a temp gauge you can get a "Heat gun" that measure temps on anything. I believe a lot of people with older performance V8s are running too hot of oil temps, they just don't know or care. Moving un-aerodynamic old trucks with no overdrive like ours down the road is almost like towing/racing all the time. #CG ENGINE OIL COOLER WORTH IT DRIVER#A thermostat is an absolute must on any oil cooler used on a daily driver because over cooling and slow warmup are a problem no matter where you live. I don't think any engine will run high oil temps in stop and go traffic as long as the radiator is doing its job. My experience says oil temp is heat and load related. A 40w thins to a 20w at 250F, which is not something I want in my engine. This is running 70-80mph at 2700-3000 rpm on the flat(3.54 gears and 33in tires). My old ford bronco with a mild 302 making 250-275hp would run oil temps as high as 250F on the interstate. (Oil nuts really enjoy knowing exactly what temp your oil is.) IMO anything running over 230-240F needs a cooler for a long life. The best way to determine if you need an oil cooler is to put a oil temp gauge on it. I plan on breaking-in the engine with Castrol 5W-30 for 3,000 miles then switching to M1. P.s.: I've already bought the oil relocation kit and oil cooler, but have installed neither. He said that racing or towing applications were different, but he went as far as saying that the oil cooler would cool the oil too much and would cause the engine to run too cool. He was silent on the tranny cooler and electric fan set-up but flatly stated the oil cooler was useless for everyday driving conditions (the truck won't haul much other than me and the dog but will be operated in the deep South where the temps and humidity can get fierce). I casually informed the dyno guy that I was going to install a tranny cooler and an oil cooler forward of the radiator and a dual electric fan set-up puller aft of the radiator (bye-bye to the belt driven fan). I took the motor over to a dyno guy yesterday and she was producing (corrected) 296 hp 5,000 rpms. The motor is going on a 1979 Chevy Silverado truck everyday driver. I have just finished buildintg a SB chevy 350 with slightly less pollution control accessories and slightly more hp and torque than stock. ![]()
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